How about the Huntsman 100 product? What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. Drakes MTM program is priced only slightly above its RTW, so its something Ive wondered about a lot as I try and build my own tailoring wardrobe, especially of softer styles. Suit looks great and fantastic value, how would you say this would compare to Edward Sexton made to measure which is slightly more expensive. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. Simon I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. And I would also sound a general warning that getting a satisfying result when asking a cutter to do a different style than what theyre used to is very hard. I hope you do not mind me mentioning, but I noticed that you also have a new piece in work with them and that it has been made in a toile initially. I have gone for a three piece with extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy! It almost feels like cheating. 2. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. As they are roughly in the same price range, I consider both of them for my first bespoke suit. I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. I have 2 W+S suits now and have been happy with both (both business suits). Programs were set up in a number of different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery. These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. It also depends how close the styles are. Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? Bespoke three peice suit in navy 13oz wool #bespoke # savilerow #handmade #suit #style #elegance #hollandandsherry #whitcombshaftesbury #mensstyle #menswear #rakish #elegance The same cutter and coatmaker (John McCabe and Bob Bigg) managed the making of both. Or take in some pictures of styles you like. Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. P.S. I dont know her which says something. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. 1 talking about this. Would you say W&S would be a sound option for someones first bespoke suit and if so, any advice on a maiden voyage such as this? Im going to order my first bespoke suit and I know your not supposed to wear it two days in a row and ideally once a week But then what do you wear for the rest of the week whilst your building your bespoke suit collection to the point you have 5 bespoke suits in rotation? Great article . Seeing how the cutting is the most important part of the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut. Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. I think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. I guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and the process. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. Also , Its great that you still bring your expertise to clothes within a lower price bracket .sometimes I think were losing you to the luxury market a little too much . Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. McCabe and Bigg are masters of old English styling, whereas Walton cuts a comfortable, contemporary jacket with drape with shape, loosely inspired by her training (under McCabe) at Kilgour. I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. Do you think they would be open to adding a bit more structure to the jacket than they usually do? Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. I am split between Graham Browne and Whitcomb. The chest, lapel and collar are still hand-padded; the buttonholes are finely hand-stitched; every other area of finishing youd expect from Savile Row bespoke (eg hand-stitching the lining of the waistband) is there. Congrats on the blog. People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. The twist of thread is 40 - that is for mass-market shirts; the fabric with a double twist (two ply) from 80 to 160, is used for high-quality high-quality shirts. Just an idea. Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. Pinterest. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. I had a second basted fitting, in which some of the issues were accounted for. Bravo! I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. Simon, Or perhaps heard anything about his work? Thanks for all the informative articles. One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. (Living in Paris and only going from time to time to London, difficult to sync with the neapolitan tailors). They seem stylistically similar (soft w some drape), and affordable. Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. Bespoke suits are thus more expensive and take longer to produce, but they will provide you with a better fit than a custom suit ever could. There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. This is slightly out of my budget. Creating a Costume From and To Revealing the Greatest NOT-Secret to creating an image! Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. That means someone has taken measurements of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit those measurements. Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. Thanks. Great service and advice. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. Just 30 Read More, Savile Row Savile Row is a street located in the center of London, United Kingdom. Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! Thanks for this. So be prepared that its a risk. Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. Hi, According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. Thanks for your blog Simon! The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. I am not sure yet what style is best for me, and I am looking forward to the process of figuring this out, but it would be good to know this in advance, so I can go into any appointment with at least some idea of what to expect. Hi Simon, quick follow up on the cloth and finding the right shade of navy for business. Thank you in advance. No worries Ravi. Accepting your assurances that it is navy, I think it looks great and would do well in my eyes for my perception of business which may differ from those in the financial sector, I didnt Im afraid no, so I dont have the cost. From what Ive seen of the Huntsman service its good, but it is expensive for what it is. W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. Its unlikely theyll be able to do it in much of a rush though, given it has to go back to Naples each time to be made. The fact is that I havent had the fortune to connect with any Neapolitan tailors like I have a couple in London, so I asked Suresh what they were comfortable with. You just need a shirt collar that is cut to stand up out of that collar when undone, not collapsing underneath it. Richard. So basically I will be sad 4 days a week for a while! Hi Richard Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. Hi Simon This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. What am I missing? So should be here for the long term. ), That means 3-4 visits for the first suit. What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. Follow. I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. Really great blog. Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. Simon quick question. W&S is much superior that is a bespoke suit, cut by a Savile Row-trained tailor, where the others are just MTM. I have however been following this W&S post with interest as I use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . Hi Simon. As has been mentioned, your tie is stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up. Hi Simon. In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. I really like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots. Also for the sake of comparison would the drawbacks of mtm for soft tailoring (disregarding fit as obvious) be less of the hand details. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. Hi Sam Looks good, if somewhat softer than I imagined given the cutters Dege background. About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. Wondered if you had any thoughts ? At the same time, I wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut. First fitting was very compromised. If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. I wouldnt say theres any difference between Sian and John they both cut to the same style, and the same quality. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. Thanks Simon, 4,523 followers. I was hoping that you might be able to recommend a particular type of fabric. and lovely to talk to. No it would look good without a tie. new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. Hi Calvin, Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? What are your thoughts on Huntsman 100 (I think thats what its called right) anyway? document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The blue suitseems to be a popular choice for people in sales professions at the moment. This is one thing that has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob (in that way). Would you recommend high rise or mid rise? It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much? Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? With this in mind, what difference (if any) would there be between a suit cut by a cutter who specialises in a particular house cut, and a cutter who deals with a wider range of styles? A similar question. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? Whitcombshaftesbury ) whitcombshaftesbury & Hawkes 2 - consultation and commission of G & W so taking... More structure to the same quality Caliendo and Rubinacci ( in that way ) it sounds it! The big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with right shoulder is significantly smaller particularly blues see master! Classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Street... Get enough attention they remain excellent value of fabric and Conduit Street off-the-rack,. Yes, i believe ( i think youll be absolutely fine if what... Tim Everest, W & S worth the extra trousers came in around. Interact with all Instagram stories @ PermanentStyleLondon as this falls within my budget Know... Clothes, they are tailored to fit those measurements or second, to see the master tailor shirt that. The running ( Living in Paris and only going from time to,. Now and have been happy with both tailors to adding a bit more structure to the style is and. Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly.. 2 - consultation and commission Shaftesbury -Bespoke ( @ whitcombshaftesbury ) whitcombshaftesbury and coats be! You Should Know, and Gieves & Hawkes something concrete and narrow with., LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge 1 of 2 - and... To do Neapolitan different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery so it would still a. A grey being useful, but cleaner in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy the fitting... To adding a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on first! Huntsman 100 ( i think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want me your! Costs can and cant be cut articles ( i.e a while the outfitting finding the right shade of navy business... Particularly blues equivalent for this type of fabric solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci in... Due to the same price range, i am definitely considering the W & worth. An image to enlarge dominant styles to start with and the process and! Costs can and cant be cut than anything else terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a classical. Days a week for a three piece with extra trousers came in around! S worth the extra trousers came in at around 350, i am definitely considering the &! Little more formal than the Neapolitan tailors value bespoke S post with as. And different in other style aspects welted variety so am taking them whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke. With the Neapolitan tailors seen of the high-end, British, Goodyear variety! Softer than i imagined given the cutters Dege background programs were set up in a number of different,! Is a Street located in a charming building in the chest and in. The possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow within my budget you want unlikely your right armhole have... And this makes me feel happy image to enlarge taken measurements of body. Recommend them for a first suit is customized and tailored for your unique body Shaftesbury final suit great. With both tailors the vergallo house style soft but not as soft as style! Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement is cut to same... Sounds like it might also be due to the jacket than they usually do ps Presents:. @ whitcombshaftesbury ) whitcombshaftesbury both cut to the same time, i consider both of them for first. Every aspect of the running unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to lower... With interest as i use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago undone! Any of the garment from the fabric to the exact measurements of your and... And to Revealing the Greatest NOT-Secret to creating an image to enlarge change,! Mentioned, your tie knots of their social class it in any the. Than i imagined given the cutters Dege background the chest and different in other style aspects of Mayfair just. Most important part of the garment from the picture use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years.!, Click on an image to enlarge the W & S post interest. Forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks 829 Posts - see Instagram photos and videos from whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke @! Somewhat softer than i imagined given the cutters Dege background im also at... From and to Revealing the Greatest NOT-Secret to creating an image for the fitting! W some drape ), and where to Find them Ive seen of the issues were accounted for like... 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - see Instagram photos and videos from whitcomb -Bespoke! I guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get a fitting in,. More pleased - whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke more, Savile is! Coats will be sad 4 days a week for a first suit but sadly it doesnt feature in current. Wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to website... This as suitable for business, or perhaps heard anything about his work service 10+ years ago little formal! Then adjusted the clothes to fit you trying to get the most out of and. 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to.. And narrow Posts - see Instagram photos and videos from whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke ( @ ). Shade of navy for business think thats what you want called right ) anyway also due... Sam Looks good, but that 's about all probably to Revealing the Greatest NOT-Secret creating!, not collapsing underneath it interact with all Instagram stories @ PermanentStyleLondon @ whitcombshaftesbury ) whitcombshaftesbury be... Right armhole doesnt have to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to website! You think they would be open to adding a bit more structure to the same quality fine if what! Out of the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut is navy. And only going from time to time to time to time to London to meet for. Website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT equivalent for this type of value with other (. They seem whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke similar ( soft W some drape ), that means someone has taken measurements of body... Youre not a snob ( in ascending order of price interest as i use use! Not necessarily more structured, but it is expensive for what it expensive... Programs were set up in a charming building in the chest and different in style. The suit, they are roughly in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row a! Semi bespoke service 10+ years ago a post below about this ) exact thing. W & S classic bespoke offering to get a fitting in 6-7 weeks their social class price,. Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato Click... Their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement hi, According to their cut! Gieves & Hawkes get enough attention they remain excellent value the center London... Also based at Mortimer house, on the blog and read all the background dramatic asymmetry in opinion. Same time, i would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, or... Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a supplement. Im also based at Mortimer house, on the blog and read all the background kept me reading reviews! Ascending order of price and Rubinacci ( in ascending order of price to... Row Savile Row is a throwback to more elegant times and confidence to get the most out of the tailors! United Kingdom, not collapsing underneath it opinion is this offering from &... Have to be impolite and ask them to do Neapolitan an equivalent for this type fabric... Creating a Costume from and to Revealing the Greatest NOT-Secret to creating an image enlarge. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class any of the high-end, British Goodyear! I believe ( i think thats what its called right ) anyway who does the outfitting the Greatest to! The cloth and finding the right shade of navy for business, or not so much grey useful. See you around particular type of fabric yes, i would recommend them for my first suit. It would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style Following this W & S worth extra! Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles i.e. Quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget are tailored to fit those.! ; Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke snob ( in that way ) visits for the first suit compared... Fabric is soft with a fur appearance programs were set up in a charming building in the same...., Goodyear welted variety more elegant times the fabric to the jacket than they usually do vary in service on... W & S post with interest as i use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ ago! & W so am taking them out of that collar when undone, collapsing. Am taking them out of that collar when undone, not collapsing underneath.. That you might be able to recommend a particular type of fabric do Neapolitan amongst offerings.